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Lady H blogs
December 2011
For the first three days of December I still had on board Len and Nick. They left from Santa Teresa and took the bus first to Sassari and then to Alghero.
Jack and I then had a solo sail from Santa Teresa to La Maddalena, and after weeks of indifferent winds we were determined to do it without using the engine. We did it! But it did take us four hours to do about 10 miles. Then we had a few days down time. My log doesn't tell me what we did so I guess we didn't do much!
On the 8th I was joined by Rene, a charming Swiss guy who was looking for somewhere to sail where there are waves. It appears they don't have them on Swiss lakes. I had difficulty finding any for the first two days by which time we had got to Olbia to pick up Pius who was an Austrian. Now Rene, being Swiss, has a job which is something to do with money. Pius, on the other hand is a small carbon footprint social worker. Oh and there was me, a man who loves to play the devil's advocate. Over the next week, when we weren't stopping the boat from sinking or changing torn sails in almost gale force winds or being 'pulled over' by French Customs, our discussions were extremely enjoyable! Mainly in English, thankfully, but on some evening after I had laid my weary head to rest the discussions went on in German into the wee small hours. But I am getting ahead of myself.
The day Pius arrived by ferry we did a short sail to Porto Rotundo. Winds were initially light but then perked up a bit for the last few miles. The following day we had even better winds for a sail up to Our first day was a light wind sail to Porto Rotundo followed by a more exciting sail to La Maddalena, arriving there on the 12th. I was a little concerned about the weather forecasts which were looking pretty scary and the morning of the 13th was true to the forecast with a north-westerley Force 7. Nevertheless, we went sailing and had a good sail up to Porto Vecchio. Well, it was a good sail up to about a mile before the entrance to Porto Vecchio bay when we were stopped by the French Customs and Excise. We heaved to while they launched a RIB and four gun toting people boarded us. Their leader was a woman I recognised from earlier in the year when she searched my boat in the Corsican anchorage of Rondinara. Jack, being male and liking females in uniform was all over her like a rash on that occasion. After they had searched the boat on that occasion she announced she would have to take Jack with her because he was lovely AND a famous pirate. I reminded her of that occasion but even Jack's charm didn't ease the thoroughness of their search. They even made phone calls over Rene's passport and asked me if I had over 10,000 Euros on board. Did they think he was my personal Swiss banker? I couldn't afford him! Eventually they let us go and we did get into Porto Vecchio in the dark.
The following morning we left for the return journey to Sardinia, and in about the same spot we were stopped again by yet another French Customs boat. Another heave-too, another check of ship's papers, another search of cabins and another phone call about a dodgy Swiss guy with a non-EU passport. (Serves them right for not being part of Europe) But eventually they let us go and we set off in a rising wind strength as we approached the notorious Bonifacio Strait. Now, I must tell you that I have a very old tatty jib sail which I really wanted to get rid of it but was loathe to do so until it self destructed. It did! and we did a very competent headsail change and continued under double reefed main and storm jib.
Then I noticed that there appeared to be rather a lot of water on the cabin sole (floor) and it seemed to be getting deeper! Some quick checks showed that the stern gland hose was leaking at an alarming rate. Now there are various things you can do in such a situation - apart from panic. The routine is as follows.
Question. Can we pump out/bail out the water as fast as it is coming in?
Answer. Yes ---- just about.
Question. Can we do anything to stem the rate of water coming in?
Answer. Yes ----- er ----- if I can think of what to use. Amalgamating tape? Nope. That didn't work. I know! cut off the top and bottom of a drinking water bottle. Slit it length ways and use it as a plastic bandage, held in place by the original hoses clips. It worked!
But it did make me wonder what I would have done if I had been alone. I think the best idea would have been to run Lady H aground in an anchorage - and we have plenty of those in this area. However, such academic thoughts were unnecessary and we sailed into La Maddalena safely and celebrated with whatever alcohol we had on board.
Then the weather turned really bad and I have lost count of the days of winds from Force 7 to Force 10 we have had since then.
Rene left on the 16th, but Pius stayed a couple of days longer and helped me take the engine out. My new engine arrives late January (hopefully) and my old engine, which still actually works, is being put into my mate Simon's boat for his crossing to the Caribbean early in January.
So for the rest of the month Jack and I have been comfortable (despite rocking and rolling occasionally) in La Maddalena. But we haven't been idle. The engine bay has been cleaned and painted. The dinette has been highly modified (something I've been threatening to do for ages) A load of washing has been done. Christmas has come and gone, and Jack and I have explored the surrounding hills when the weather has permitted. Quite confusing really. Some days it is warm enough for shorts and T-shirt, then the next day there is a cold wind. Bit like being in the UK in the summer!
WHAT THEY SAID!
Just to thank you again for a really super time and if this old dog didn't learn any new ricks then he jolly well should have.I'll leave it to Nick to tell you of our adventures getting to the airport but we made it in plenty of time in the end. I showed my pictures of Captain Jack to the family and they were smitten, he certainly has charisma. - All the best, - Len
What I have learned.
- Where I could hide drugs and illegal immigrants despite being checked several times by French customs. (dirty washing for drugs, cockpit lockers for immigrants.
- How much water can be taken in the bilge until one can see it on top of the floor. How it feels to discover a leak in the hull and pump out seawater for two hours.
- How to chnage a ripped headsail in Force 7 winds.
- When to have the rare chance of seeing Tim smoking inside the cabin. (refer to point 2 above)
Besides the above 'exceptional' learning points, I really appreciated and enjoyed the great sailing we had. Good talks, funny jokes, plenty of British humourt and learning from your encompassing life experience.
I absolutely enjoyed the week on Lady H and will keep it in good memory! And, hey, I've got to come back to see Bonifacio.
Wishing you all the best and fair winds. - Rene.