www.Lets-go-Sailing.co.uk
The French Canals
aka The Crispian Cruise
In a nutshell. Depart Port St Louis 7th May. Arrive Brighton 17th June. (Calais 15th June) Travel for about seven hours a day which gives us eight days for major sightseeing. Oh, and almost all those lock gates
are automatic so, apart from handling lines, you won’t have a lot to do other than admire the scenery.
(Hope also to have a couple of bicycles on board)
(Many more details will be added as my research continues - and I welcome the input of anyone who is considering coming along for the ride)
Port St Louis to Lyon - 7th to 13th May
313km = 44 hours. 14 locks = 7 hours. Total 51 hours = 6.5 days
PORT St LOUIS du RHONE
This is where we dismast 'Lady H' and prepare her for the canals by surrounding her with as many tyres and fenders we can manage.
The small town is fairly featureless, created on the canal that was dug in 1871 and the substantial industrial areas and dockyards that border it and the Golfe de Fos.
LOCK OUT OF PORT St LOUIS ONTO RIVER RHONE
River Rhone – ‘le Rhone’ 323km of navigable and canalised Rhone river from Port St Louis to Lyon Port St Louis. There are 12 ecluses (locks) all of which are very large and very deep - the biggest is 20 metres deep and is said to be like parking in a roofless cathederal!
The Rhone is one of Europe’s great rivers: in size, in power and in the commercial traffic it carries large ships and cruise liners use the river at all times as do around 1,800 plaisanciers (pleasure boats), of 20 different nationalities,.
A few of the highlights between Port St Louis and Lyon are Avignon. A world famous place that cannot be missed. The Bridge (Pont St Benezet) was once extremely long, with many arches, and reached from Avignon to the Tour Philippe le Bel at (what is now) Villeneuve. Only a few arches are now left. The song is about dancing on the isthmus ‘island’ across the river from Avignon, under (sous) the bridge not on (sur) ‘le pont’. Also at Villeneuve, St Andre’s Castle (left pic) is an outstanding example of medieval fortification. The Pope was obliged to flee Rome in 1309 and established his relocated court and palace at Avignon – the result is a soaring architectural masterpiece. Besides the palace, the town itself shelters a maze of streets behind massive defensive walls. Villeneuve was the location for 15 cardinals’ palaces. It all lasted 70 years, then the Pope went back to Rome – although a series of quasi-Popes then continued to operate from Avignon.
Roquemaure which is opposite the romantic Chateau de l’Hers, a ruined castle set atop a rocky outcrop. St-Etienne-des-Sorts which is a pretty, wine-oriented, village. Then on to le Cabaret and ultimately the lock at Bollene, which was the deepest lock in Europe, possibly the world’s best known. Amazingly big to be inside, at the bottom, like a concrete cathedral with the roof off. Very smooth and very easy. Quite an experience for a small boat.
The ‘Defile de Donzere‘, the narrowest natural gorge on the Rhone, before reaching Viviers. This has been described as one of France’s ‘hidden’ gems. An unspoiled (not cleaned-up, not overly prettified) walled medieval hilltop town/village (city?) with France’s smallest cathedral at the top (Gobelin tapestries). Narrow twisty streets, little courtyards, provencal tiled roofs, gargoyles, sculpted facades and faded painted signs.
Then on to Valence whichh as a marina with 'excellent showers' and supermarkets! Then through the lock and on to la Roche de Glun and its neighbouring picturesque hamlet of Glun. This was once the haunt of river pirates, but with CAPTAIN Jack Sparrow on board we have nothing to fear.
LYON is France’s second city; fine buildings, old buildings, public squares and a long history dating back before the Roman city, which was itself very important. Thoroughly recommend the walking tour of Fourviere (as in almost every French city, town or village, go to the Tourist Office) that includes visiting the ‘secret’ houses, their courts and passages. Also the modern and completely engrossing archeological museum near the Fourviere basilica.
Lyon to Chalon - 14th to 16th May
145km = 21 hours. 3 locks = 1.5 hours. Total 22.5 hours = 3 days
AT LYON WE JOIN THE RIVER SAONE AND HEAD TOWARDS CHALON.
Highlights along this stretch include Collonges with its famous five-star Paul Bocuse restaurant is close by. Trevoux - Historic and very pretty, Trevoux was once capital of its own small principality of the Dombes. Good moorings by the campsite, grass, trees, walks along the river. Belleville which is in the middle of the Beaujolais region. The historic town of Macon. Tournus with its 1,000 year old abbey. Gigny which is described as an absolute delight and good dog walking territory.
CHALON is described as a great small city, with plenty to see and do, including fast rail links. It was the birthplace of photography – the Brothers Niepce museum by the river is thoroughly recommended. It marked the boundary between Occupied and Vichy France during WWII.
CANAL DU CENTRE (rural)
Chalon to Digoin - 17th to 22nd May
112km = 16 hours. 61 locks = 31 hours. Total 47 hours = 6 days
At Chalon we turn westwards along the Canal du Centre. We are now on much more rural canals and the locks are far more plentiful. It is 688 kilometers to Paris with 167 locks to negotiate but this is the French Canals at their best and, without the larger ships and commercial craft to worry about, we will simply be enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of rural France for about two weeks.
The Canal du Centre takes us as far as Dijoin with many opportunities to taste and buy excellent Pinot Noir Burgundy wine. We then join the Loire Lateral Canal which takes us to Briare. A little further north from Dijoin it is possible to make an excursion to La Charité-sur-Loire with its Cluniac monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the pilgrim’s route to Santiago de Compestela in northern Spain.
CANAL LATERAL (rural)
Digion to Briare - 23rd to 28th May
196km = 28 hours. 36 locks = 18 hours. Total 46 hours = 6 days
One of the highlights along this stretch is the Briare Aqueduct which was designed by the canal engineer Abel Mazoye,r and the fourteen masony supports were constructed by the Eiffel company. The paired obelisks at each end reflect the same feature on the Pont Alexandre on the Seine in Paris and the aqueduct is lit by a chain of Art Nouveau style lamp standards. A pity we can't cross it at night.
CANAL DE BRIARE (rural)
Briare to Montargis - 29th to 31st May
54km = 8 hours. 32 locks = 16 hours. Total 32 hours = 3 days
CANAL DE LOING (rural)
Montargis to Saint Mammes - 1st to 2nd June
50km = 7 hours. 19 locks = 9.5 hours. Total 16.5 hours = 2 days
RIVER SEINE
Saint Mammes to Paris - 3rd to 4th June
98km = 14 hours - 8 locks = 3 hours. Total 20 hours = 2 days
From Briare we take the Canal de Briare which eventually joins the River Seine at Saint Mammes, just south of Paris, via the historic, fortified town of Moret. Arriving in, travelling through, Paris by boat is said to be one of the most memorable and privileged experiences possible. Every key building, statue or view is close to the river, from La Defence to Notre Dame.
After plenty of time to see the sights in Paris we continue to Conflans where we join the River Oise to Pont l'Eveque where we join the Canal du Nord which includes two tunnels, the longest being the Ruyaulcourt Tunnel – 4.354km.
Paris Arsenal to Conflans - 5th to 6th June
72km = 10 hours. 4 locks = 2 hours. Total 13 hours = 1.5 days
RIVER OISE
Conflans to Janville - 7th to 8th June
101km = 14 hours. 7 locks = 3.5 hours. Total 17.5 hours = 2 days
CANAL DU NORD
Janville to Arleux - 9th to 11th June
105km = 15 hours. 23 locks = 12 hours. Total 27 hours = 3 days
CANAL D'AIRE
Arleux to Calais - 12th to 14th June
133km = 19 hours. 9 locks = 4.5 hours. Total 23.5 hours = 3 days
CHANNEL CROSSING
15th. prepare for sea.
16th. Cross to Brighton - arrive on the 17th.
Rather than tie myself down to specific places to be on specific dates, I have altered the Canal Schedule. Basically, if you would like to join us anytime between the 1st May and the 16th June for a weekend, a long weekend or even longer, simply drop us a line. Most of the places we will be in or near are fed by high speed trains from Paris so getting to us should be no problem. (all at 35 Euros per person per night)